Sunday, August 23, 2015

FLYING THE ATLANTIC, part 6

By DELL ARTHUR
The time spent at Goodwood, England, was an adventure and thrill in itself. Flying off the grass runway, as it has been kept since World War II, we climbed to altitude and headed for France. Looking across the cloudless summer sky it was hard to imagine that this same sky was the exact airspace that German and British warplanes fought to the death. Looking down at the placid blue waters of the English Channel one couldn’t help wonder about the hundreds of airmen, both defender and enemy, who lie under the waters in immortalize sleep.

Our destination was Le Havre, France. The flight was a relative short one and reaching the shores of France I looked to the north and could see in the distance the beaches of Normandy where on June 6, 1944, the allies invaded Europe. Le Havre at that time was under German occupation and its port was used by the German Navy to control both the channel and Atlantic Ocean. During the war the city was bombed 132 times by American and British bombers and the result reduced the city to rubble. Over 5,000 Frenchmen and Nazis died as a result.

There was little aircraft activity and the Le Havre-Octerville airport cleared us for landing. It was exactly noon. Touching down we taxied to the customs area, parked the airplane and entered the building. Reaching the customs office we rang a bell. No answer. We waited a bit and rang again, still no answer. Finally someone came by the office and we inquired about checking in with customs. The guy only stared at us—he didn’t speak English. So, with a smile of indifference he wandered off and we continued to wait.

Time passed so being lunch time we went upstairs to the restaurant. Without question the sandwich I ordered was the worst concoction I ever had the displeasure of eating! Anyone who lauds French cooking would have had an argument with me! I wondered if this was the same restaurant that provided food for the airlines.

With lunch finished we returned to customs. Nobody there. We waited for an hour and nobody ever showed up. Disgusted we returned to the airplane, fired up the engines and took off for our destination, Macon. We never did check in with the French Customs and I don’t know if they ever knew we landed there.

Macon is located in the Burgundy area and about a two hour drive to Paris. It is a beautiful city of over 35,000 people. I was billeted in a chateau serving as a “bread and breakfast” about five miles out of town surrounded by some of the most beautiful pastoral farming land imaginable.  The building I stayed at was over 400 years old and the original front door was still in use. Compared to buildings on the east coast of the United States who brag about some buildings being 300 years old the Europeans would consider these American structures as “new construction!”
My "Bread and Breakfast" room upper right window
                                                      Photo by Dell Arthur

Customers enjoying a morning coffee
                                                                  Photo by Dell Arthur
The history of the community dates as back as the beginning of the first century. At that time it was dominated by the Romans. As time passed Macon changed with the times and different forms of government. As part of the French Revolution, Macon became prominent. It is hard to understand the wars and deaths associated with this charming city over its history. But the most horrific time was during the Second World War when the Nazis occupied the territory. Walking down the cobblestone streets one could picture German soldiers, armed with rifles, intimidating the population. Following the Allied invasion the city was liberated on September 4, 1944.

But when the shops close for the evening the streets become empty. Some restaurants remain open and it was at one of these I met and became friends with the manager, a bald headed muscular manager of about five feet, eight inches and solid built. It turned out he was a Corsican who looked like a villain out of a James Bond movie. Contrary to appearances he proved to be the perfect host. Now that I found a “favorite restaurant” to visit I returned many times during my stay.

One of the most impressive monuments is the Cathedral of Saint-Vincent. The Cathedral was built in the early 1000’s and remains active to the present day. Walking through the ancient church there are several tunnels and each has a small “side altar,” where individual masses in the past centuries were said. But today Mass is a said exclusively only in the main nave.

But it was getting dark now and following a day of activity and flying it was time to retire to my bread and breakfast and turn in for the night.
(to be continued)









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